The Klemheist Knot is a slide and grip knot that is used to ascend or descend a rope.
It works like the classic Prusik Knot—it slides up and down the rope when no load is applied and locks when the load is applied.
But, it only grips in a single direction.
Let’s learn it in detail.
Klemheist Knot Details
Type: Slide and Grip Knot
Other Names: French Machard Knot
ABoK Reference: #1762
Quick Guide
To tie the Klemheist Knot, wrap the prusik loop around the main rope 2 or 3 times moving from bottom to top.
Then, pass the bottom bight through the top.
Finally, dress the knot neatly and pull it back in the direction of the expected load.
How to Tie a Klemheist Knot
- Place the Prusik cord behind the main rope.
- Wrap it around the main rope from bottom to top.
- Pass it two more times in the same direction.
- Pass the bottom loop through the upper loop.
- Take the bottom loop back down to finish the knot.
If you need to lock the knot in place, weight the knot downwards. To release, simply hold the wraps and slide them up or down.
Note: If the knot slips when the load is applied, wrap the rope through the main rope a few more times.
Choosing the Right Rope Size
The Prusik loop should be tied with a rope of a diameter less than the main rope. In any case, it should be no more than 70% of the diameter of the main rope.
Example: if you use a 9mm main rope, a 6mm Prusik cord is enough.
If the diameters of both ropes are close to each other, the knot won’t grip effectively.
Application and Uses
- Ascend a rope in an emergency situation.
- As a backup friction hitch when rappelling down (abseiling) a climbing line.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Easy to tie and untie
- Does not jam and easy to release after being loaded
- Can be used with webbing and cord
Cons
- Works in only one direction
Klemheist Knot vs Prusik Knot
| Prusik Knot | Klemhesit Knot | |
| Loading Direction | Can be loaded in both directions | Loaded only in one direction |
| Holding power | Stronger holding power | Slightly less holding power |
| Releasing | Hard to release after loading | Easy to release |
| Inspection | Easy to inspect as it maintains a consistent shape throughout | Looks messier when loaded heavily |
| Webbing compatibility | Not used with webbing | Can be tied with webbing |
| Applications | Search & rescue, climbing and rapelling | Situations similar to Prusik or webbing use |
Other Slide and Grip Knots
Autoblock Knot
The Autoblock Knot (also known as French Prusik Knot) is tied like the Klemheist knot.
It uses a carabiner to join two ends of the loop. This setup allows you to release the knot while it’s still loaded.
It tends to slip while ascending but is used as a backup when abseiling.
Bachmann Knot
The Bachmann Knot functions a lot like the Klemheist knot.
It incorporates a carabiner that works as a handle, so it’s easy to slide the cord up and down the main line.
Always remember not to load the carabiner, as this can lead to slipping.
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