The Bachmann Knot is a friction knot used in climbing, mountaineering, and search & rescue operations.
It’s a slide-and-grip knot that uses a carabiner as a handle to advance the knot up and down the main rope.
This makes it a great choice during emergencies where a friction hitch needs to be replaced often and urgently.
Let’s learn it in detail.
Bachmann Knot Details
Type: Slide and Grip Knot
Other Names: Bachman Knot
ABoK Reference: Not Available
Quick Guide
To tie the Bachmann Knot, clip the Prusik loop through the crabinber. Wrap it through the carabiner 3-4 times.
Then, allow the end of the cord to hang down through the carabiner.
Finally, clip the load onto the hanging loop.
How to Tie a Bachmann Knot
- Clip the Prusik cord through the carabiner.
- Align the carabiner spine along the climbing rope. Make sure the Fisherman’s knot is offset a little from the bottom.
- Wrap the cord around the rope and the carabiner.
- Bring the end of the cord out through the carabiner.
If you need to release the knot, slide the carabiner up and down the rope. To lock the carabiner, simply apply weight.
To undo the knot, simply unclip the top loop. Then, pull the cord free while holding the carabiner.
Things to Consider
- Always use a locking carabiner since you’ll be grabbing it to move the hitch. Even if you use a non locking carabiner, ALWAYS place the gate of the carabiner screw in a downward direction.
- Make sure not to wrap the Double Fisherman’s Knot in the wrapping.
- Never grip the carabiner to apply loads as it may lead to slipping.
- Use a round cross-section carabiner for friction.
- Test the knot before climbing so that it grips properly.
Choosing the Right Rope Size
The Prusik loop should be tied with a rope of a diameter less than the main rope. In any case, it should be no more than 70% of the diameter of the main rope.
Example: if you use a 9mm main rope, a 6mm Prusik cord is enough.
If the diameters of both ropes are close to each other, the knot won’t grip effectively.
Application and Uses
- It’s used in climbing, search and rescue, and mountaineering to ascend or descend the rope.
- It’s used as a backup for a self rescue in crevices to hoist up the casualty.
- It’s used as a simple aid in climbing up a rope.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Easy to tie and untie
- Easy to tie with gloves on
Cons
- It can be loaded in only one direction, i.e., downwards
- Does not provide enough friction on wet or iced up ropes.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the benefit of the Bachmann knot over the Prusik?
The Bachmann knot has one advantage over the Prusik—use of the carabiner.
It works as a handle that makes it easy to reset the knot quickly.
When you need to move, just slide the carabiner instead of manually loosening and resetting the Prusik.
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