Prusik Knot

The Prusik knot is a friction hitch that is used to ascend and descend a rope.

It’s tied with a prusik cord—a small diameter cord that is wrapped around the main climbing rope to add friction.

The best part about this knot is that it slides when not weighted but jams solid when loaded.

Let’s learn it in detail.

Note: The Prusik knot is pronounced as “proo-sick” and not “Prussik.” 

How to Tie the Prusik Knot

To tie the Prusik Knot, tie the Girth Hitch around the main line using the Prusik loop. Then, wrap the Prusik loop three times around the rope to finish the knot. Make sure the rope is dressed properly and there is no crossing over.

1. Take the main rope and a piece of cord formed into a loop (no more than half the diameter of the main rope).
2. Tie a Girth Hitch around the main rope.
3. Pass the loop of the cord back through the center of the Girth Hitch two times.
4. Pull the knot tight. Make sure the turns lie neatly beside each other.

To untie, pinch the knot to loosen it. This allows you to move it up or down the rope. 

To lock the knot, simply apply weight. If the knot gets stuck, you can push some cord in from the center of the knot to loosen it.

Things to Consider

Prusik Cord Size

The diameter of the cord should be 60-80% of the main rope diameter. 

In general, a 6mm cord works best with the 10mm rope and a 5mm cord works best with the 8mm rope.

The length of the Prusik cord should be around 1.2 to 1.5 meters.

Using a thin cord means it tightens easily around the rope and is difficult to move around. A thick cord won’t provide enough friction to lock the prusik.

Prusik Cord Material

Prusik cords are usually made of Nylon and tied using the Double Fisherman’s Knot.

If you use a stiff material, it won’t lock around the main line properly. 

If you plan to use the Prusik Knot frequently, you can go for the pre-sewn Prusik loops. They are stronger and more durable.

Applications and Uses

• Climbing and mountaineering: Mainly used in climbing to ascend or descend a rope. A longer Prusik loop supports the climber’s foot and a shorter one is attached to the harness.
• Backup for rapelling: In rappelling, it can act as an autoblock to hold a climber in place when he needs to use both hands. Climbers can use two Prusiks along a fixed rope—the lower knot acts as a foot loop and the top one is controlled by the hands.
• Rescue operations:  Used as anchor points and pulley systems for hauling.
• Emergency restraints: Can be used as handcuffs in an emergency.
• Camping, hiking and bushcraft: Used to attach a tarpaulin or shelter to a ridge line, as they can easily be slid along the line to the required position without damaging the line.
• Arborists and tree stand hunters: Provides safety while working at heights.

Pros and Cons

Pros 

• Strong and Secure 
• Locks in both directions
• Prusik loops are lightweight, compact and easy to carry

Cons

• Difficult to untie when heavily loaded
• Does not work well with the frozen wet ropes

History Of Prusik Knot

The Prusik Knot is named after Austrian mountaineer Karl Prusik. It first appeared in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending.

Today, the term Prusik is used as both a noun (referring to the knot and the loop) and a verb (prusiking up a rope).

Other Variants of the Prusik Knot

Autoblock Knot 

The Autoblock or French Prusik is used as a backup when abseiling.

It’s easy to tie and untie, and release under load.

It’s tied by wrapping the prusik loop around the rope 4 times and clipping the ends with the carabiner. It locks down when tension is applied and loosens when pinched.

It locks in both directions.

Klemheist Knot

The Klemheist Knot is a one-way friction hitch used for ascending ropes.

It’s easy to tie and release under load and can be tied with the webbing as well.

To tie this knot, wrap the prusik cord around the rope a few times. Then, pass the loose end through the loop. Clip the carabiner onto the loose end.

It locks itself when the weight is applied.

Bachmann Knot

The Bachmann Knot incorporates the carabiner in the turns. It’s used on ascending ropes and is especially useful when wearing bulky gloves.

To tie this knot, clip the prusik cord through the carabiner and wrap it around the rope while feeding it through the carabiner each time. Let the loose end hang through the carabiner and clip your load to this end.

Note: Be careful not to clip your load to the carabiner, which functions as a handle.

Valdotain Tresse

The Valdotain Tresse (also known as VT ) is an advanced friction hitch used when ascending or descending the rope.

It’s easy to slide, but it unties under load.

To tie this knot, tie the Poacher’s knot at two ends of the cord. Then, wrap one end of the cord around the rope several times and tie a lacing or braid below. Then, clip the loops into the carabiner.

Distel Hitch

The Distel Hitch is a friction hitch that does not require a Prusik loop—you just need a lanyard with loops at each end.

It grips better than other friction hitches because of the riding turn. It’s quick and reliable but can be difficult to slide.

To tie the Distel hitch, make 4 wraps around the main rope with the help of the lanyard. Then, bring the rope down crossing over the main rope, and feed it through the loop formed. At last, bring both eyes in the front and clip them with the carabiner.

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