Double Alpine Butterfly Loop

The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop creates two fixed loops in the middle of the rope.

It’s an improvement over the Alpine Butterfly Knot when you need multiple loops on the same line.

You can apply loads from both loops and rope ends together or separately without the knot collapsing itself.

Let’s check this knot in detail.

How to Tie a Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Knot

1. Wrap the rope around your palm four times.
2. Pass the second and third wraps under the fourth one.
3. Pass it over the two wraps on the left.
4. Pass it under the same two wraps.
5. Slide the knot off the hand and tighten the knot.

Pro TIP: To create the loop of the required size, adjust the wrap to make the loops of the size you need in step 2.

Applications and Uses

The Double Alpine Butterfly loop is used in climbing, mountaineering, search & rescue operations.

It forms multiple clip-in points for carabiners or other gears for a shared safety line.

If you need to set up a pulley system, the two loops can be used to give a mechanical advantage.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Easy to tie and remember
• Can be tied in the bight
• Can handle multidirectional loads on each loop

Cons

• Can jam under heavy load when used with stiff ropes or in wet conditions

Security of Double Alpine Butterfly Loop

The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop is a safe and secure loop knot.

It has all the advantages of the Alpine Butterfly Loop knot.

It creates two non collapsing loops which can be used as clip-in points for life critical applications as well.

You can apply load on a single loop, both loops or any combination of the loops and the rope ends, and the knot won’t come undone.

Other Similar Knots

Alpine Butterfly Knot

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is tied in a similar way to the Double Alpine butterfly loop but only gives you a single loop.

Double Figure 8 Knot

The Double Figure 8 Knot forms two fixed loops at the end of the rope. It’s strong but harder to untie.

It’s used for equalizing anchors or as a makeshift harness for rescue operations.

Bowline on a Bight

The Bowline on a Bight creates two loops in the middle of the rope.

It works well when both loops are loaded.

It’s used to setup Y-hang anchors or as an emergency Bosun’s chair.

Spanish Bowline

The Spanish Bowline has a double splayed loop, but once it is tightened you cannot adjust it.

It’s commonly used as a Bosun’s chair for search and rescue operations.

Portuguese Bowline

The Portuguese Bowline has two loops which you can adjust even after the knot is tightened.

It’s used as a makeshift harness to lift or lower an injured person.

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