Inline Figure 8 knot is one of the common knots among the climbers.
It is also known as Directional Figure 8, since the loop can only be tensioned in certain directions.
It creates a fixed loop in the middle of a rope and is used as a load-bearing knot to handle tension in one direction only.
Inline Figure 8 Knot Details
Type: Loop
Also Known As: Single Bowline on the Bight
ABoK Reference: #1058
How to Tie Inline (Directional) Figure 8 Knot
- Make a loop in the rope.
- Pass it behind the standing end.
- Pass the loop around the standing end.
- Tuck the loop through the loop at the base of the initial loop.
- Pull the knot tight.
You’ve done it right, if the loop points in line with the standing part and there are no twists or overlaps in the knot.
To untie this knot simply unwrap it from the loop and pull the rope in the opposite direction.
Applications
The Inline Figure 8 Knot is commonly used in rock climbing, mountaineering, and search and rescue operations.
It is useful to create loops in the middle of the rope that can be used as handholds or anchor points.
Inline Figure 8 vs Alpine Butterfly Knot
Strength
In a literature review of Knot Strength Testing by Thomas Evans (ITRS 2016), the Alpine Butterfly Knot has higher residual strength compared to the Inline Figure of 8 Knot.
Ease of Tying and Untying
The Inline Figure of 8 Knot is easier to untie in most cases. On the other hand, the Alpine Butterfly is easier to untie in certain loading scenarios.
Ease of Learning & Checking
The Alpine Butterfly Knot is much easier to learn for beginners. The Inline Figure of 8 is visually easier to check because it looks similar to the Figure 8 Loop.
Popularity
The Inline Figure of 8 Knot is popular among rock climbers, but the Alpine Butterfly Knot is more versatile and preferred in several ropework scenarios.
Warning
Remember that Inline Figure of 8 can capsize if tensioned from the wrong direction. So, it must not be used in situations where the pull is expected from the wrong end.
The Knot can be difficult to undo after a shock load.
If you are in a situation where the load may be applied from either end, the Alpine Butterfly knot is preferred.
The Alpine Butterfly knot may be loaded between either end of the rope and the loop. Plus, it is easier to untie.
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