The Alpine Butterfly Knot creates a loop in the middle of the rope.
There are plenty of loop knots that do the same thing, but this one stands out. Why?
It can withstand load in either direction alone or together and it’s easy to untie even after heavy loading.
Let’s learn it in detail.
Alpine Butterfly Knot Details
Type: Loop
Other Names: Butterfly Knot, Harness loop, Lineman’s loop
ABoK Reference: #331, #532 #1053
How to Tie Alpine Butterfly Knot Step by Step
The Hand Wrap Method
This is the easiest way to tie the knot. You’ll get it right most of the time with this method.
Follow these steps:
- Wrap the rope around your hand 3 times.
- Slide the Loop 2 under the Loop 3.
- Bring the Loop 2 back over Loop 1 and 3.
- Take it back underneath Loop 1 and 3.
- Slide the knot off your hand.
- Tighten the knot.
Two Twist Method
This method comes straight from the Ashley Book of Knots. It’s a bit trickier and prone to mistakes, so watch out for a False Alpine Butterfly knot (more on that later).
- Make a loop in the rope.
- Twist the rope to make a loop like shape “8”.
- Pull the upper loop down.
- Pass it through the eye.
- Tighten the knot.
Double Alpine Butterfly Knot
The Double Alpine Butterfly Knot is similar to the regular Alpine Butterfly knot, but it creates two loops side by side instead of one.
It’s useful if two non-collapsing clip in points are required in the middle of the rope.
You can apply the load from both loops and the rope’s end.
That said, it does not collapse even if only one loop or end is loaded.
It’s comparable to the Double Figure 8 knot (Bunny ears) in strength but is harder to untie after heavy loading.
Common Mistakes: False Butterfly Knot
It’s quite easy to mess up with this knot, especially with the twisting method.
A False Alpine Butterfly Knot will be created if the second twist is made in reverse of the first one.
It will result in a knot that looks like the Alpine Butterfly but isn’t.
It has no interlocked loops and the wings appear on the opposite side.
Check it out yourself.
Application and Uses
- Isolating a damaged section of the rope
- Creating hand and foot loops for climbing
- Building a rope step ladder
- Joining two ropes together (Alpine Butterfly Bend)
- Create a midline attachment point for clipping gears like lanterns or pots
- Securing carabiners to the climbing harnesses
- Keeping the middle climber secure in three person rope team
- Acting as the pulley when making rope tackle system
- Setting up clotheslines or hanging tools in the garage
- As a component of the Trucker’s Hitch
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Easy to tie
- Can be tied in the middle of the rope
- Does not slip if loaded in either direction
- Easy to adjust the loop size
- Can be three-way loaded
- Uses less rope than other loop knots
- Easy to untie after loading
Cons
- Difficult to learn for beginners
- Does not work well with stiff and thick ropes
Alpine Butterfly Knot Strength
The Alpine Butterfly knot is one of the strongest loop knots.
It has a high breaking strength (60-80%) based on how it’s loaded–end to end or loop to end.
Other Similar Knots
Directional Figure 8 Knot
The Directional Figure 8 is also tied in the bight but creates a loop that offers direction-specific ability.
It should be loaded in a certain direction only else the knot might capsize and fail.
Bowline on a Bight
The Bowline on a bight creates a pair of fixed loops in the middle of the rope.
It is one of the standard tie-in knots recommended for climbing because it is generally considered secure.
Its main downside is that if you load only one loop with weight, the knot might slip out.
Figure 8 Loop
The Figure 8 Loop (either a Figure 8 on a bight or a Figure 8 Follow through) creates a loop in the middle of the line.
It is one of the secure, strong and most popular loop knots.
But it can jam under heavy loads.
Farmer’s Loop
The Farmer’s Loop is a mid-loop knot that is similar in strength to the regular Alpine Butterfly Loop.
As Ashley puts it, the tying process is ingenious and distinctive and it’s almost difficult to forget the entire tying process.
Artillery Loop
The Artillery Loop also creates a fixed loop in the middle of the rope, but it’s inferior to the Alpine butterfly knot.
It’s used only for non-critical purposes as it can deform its shape under shape.
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